If you think Iceland’s Golden Circle is just another overhyped tourist trap, you’re in for a surprise — and not the kind that erupts every 5 minutes like the Strokkur geyser. Beyond the busloads of selfie sticks and souvenir shops lies a wild, volcanic heart pulsing with ancient history, otherworldly landscapes, and tales so grim they’d make a Game of Thrones writer blush.
This isn’t just a drive through pretty scenery. It’s a journey across continents (literally) into sagas of drowned criminals, rebellious environmental heroines, and a boiling Earth that breathes fire and steam. Yes, the route is popular. But no, it’s not just for tour groups and guidebooks — if you know where to look.
A lot of information about Iceland can still only be found in historical records, Icelandic books, or the mind of an experienced local guide. That’s why I’m here to help you rediscover Iceland’s most misunderstood route, one lava-stained legend at a time.
Being from Iceland and having traveled this route with my parents multiple times as a kid, I introduced it to my friends visiting Iceland for the first time (including my husband). Now, working at a company that tours this route almost daily, I have a lot to share with you!
What is the Golden Circle?
The Golden Circle is Iceland’s most famous driving route, not to be confused with the famous Ring Road that circles the entire island. The Golden Circle route covers approximately 300 kilometers (186 miles) southwest of Iceland, starting and ending in Reykjavík.
The loop runs through three iconic natural and historical sites: Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall, and the Geysir Geothermal Area. The name “Golden Circle” comes from the Gullfoss waterfall, meaning “Golden Falls,” though some speculate it also alludes to the wealth of natural beauty and historical significance found along the route.
A standard Golden Circle tour takes about 8 hours, but for those wanting to explore deeper, the route offers hidden gems and lesser-known detours worth exploring.
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Thingvellir National Park
Þingvellir (Thingvellir) has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2004 and is Iceland’s most historically significant location. It is where Icelanders founded their parliament, Alþingi, in 930 AD, where it was held annually until 1798, making it one of the oldest parliaments in the world.
The region is also famous for its geological significance as it sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates drift apart. Today, people mostly know this place because it is one of the few in the world where you can walk between two continents.
Opening hours: Open to the public 24/7
Parking Fee: 1000 ISK for a full day
Parking Areas:
P1 – Enter the upper part of Almannagjá, where the National Park Visitor Center is located.
P2 – Enter at Efri-Vellir, which is below Öxarárfoss waterfall.
P3 – Enter at the long path north of Öxarárfoss, where you walk up Stekkjargjá gorge.
P4 – Enter close by Flosagjá gorge and the iconic Peningajá’ money gorge’.
P5 – Entry is the closest to Þingvellir Church and the Silfra Gorge.
Drowning Pool of Thingvellir
You might know this place in Thingvellir, and the name gives away what went on there during a grim period in Iceland’s history, but there’s a lot to uncover.
From the late 16th century to the first year of the 18th century, executions were performed in Iceland for what were considered at the time serious crimes. Some are still regarded as heinous, although the legal process looks different. However, the most common death sentences were in two categories of cases.
On the one hand, there were so-called ‘dulsmál,’ which translates to ‘cryptic cases,’ where the birth of a child was concealed, and the child was carried out and left to die. On the other hand, there was so-called ‘blóðskömm’ or’ blood shame’ when people who were closely related or connected by blood had children.
In these cases, executions were carried out by drowning the guilty women, while men found guilty faced decapitation. Historical records in Iceland verify that at least 14 women were drowned in Drekkingahylur at Thingvellir for either infanticide or incest (often both).
The first woman to suffer this fate was from the north of Iceland, and her execution took place in 1590. The judges found her guilty in 1590 of perjury for swearing she was a virgin when she was, in fact, with child. Although she first denied giving up the father, she later revealed that it was her brother-in-law.
Women who were executed in the ravine were led to the cliff as a sack was forced over their heads. A rope was tied around their waist, and historians believe they were made to stand for a while on the cliff edge —for executions were not only a punishment for crimes but also a warning to others.
They were then pushed forward and held down in the icy water with a stick until they drowned. The last execution in the drowning pool at Thingvellir was carried out in 1749.
Despite the grim history of the drowning pool, it’s, in fact, a beautiful, calm part of the river Öxará that flows through Thingvellir. The water is clear (you can see all the way down to the bottom), surrounded by moss-covered lava, and it sits next to a tall cliff.
When you stand on the bridge next to the pool, you have the view of the drowning pool and cliff in front of you, a gorgeous waterfall a few meters away to your right, and behind you, the calm waters of the pool start to flow again down steep rocky terrain. Simply gorgeous.
Walk Between Tectonic Plates
Almannagjá, which translates to ‘Public Canyon,’ is a massive rift valley marking the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Walking through this geological scar, you are literally stepping between two continents, with the land slowly pulling apart at about 2 cm (0.8 inches) per year.
The entire gorge is 8 km (5 miles) long. However, the path made for visitors leads from the visitor center at P1 through the gorge and ends at the Drekkingahylur drowning pool. Another part of Almannagjá, called Stekkjargjá, has a path starting from P3 and going between the tectonic plates down to Öxaráfoss waterfall. Both paths take about 20 minutes one way.
Almannagjá Gorge used to serve a significant purpose for Althingi. It formed a natural amphitheater that provided excellent acoustics for parliamentary discussions. The speaker of parliament would stand at the top of the cliff and speak to the people sitting below. Thousands of people would travel nationwide to learn about new laws and settle debates on subjects brought to the parliament’s attention each year.
This specific location is called Lögberg, which directly translates to ‘Law Rock,’ and the place is marked with a flagpole where the Icelandic flag is visible most days.
Touch Two Continents Simultaneously
For those who want to go beyond walking and actually touch both tectonic plates simultaneously, the Silfra Fissure is the only place in the world where this is possible. This glacial water-filled crack between the continents allows divers to float in crystal-clear water with a visibility of 100+ meters (328 feet), which makes this Icelandic fissure the most incredible underwater visibility of any diving spot on Earth.
Because the crack narrows down at the bottom, the two tectonic plates are pretty close together, allowing divers to be on two continents at once. Even if you’re not a diver, it’s worth a visit. The nearest parking area is P5, and it takes about 5-10 minutes for divers to reach the Silfra fissure entry steps. People are welcome to use the steps to get up closer to the water and view the gorge below; however, be aware that divers and dive guides do have priority as that is their access and safety point.
Please never enter the water without a guide. The water is 2-4°C all year round (35-39°F), a temperature that can cause shock if not properly prepared. This also applies to any body of water in Thingvellir, which is freezing cold glacial water.
Gullfoss Waterfall
Gullfoss is one of Iceland’s most powerful waterfalls and plunges 32 meters (105 feet) over two stages into a rugged canyon. The first drop is an 11-meter (36 ft) drop, and the second is a 21-meter (69 ft) plunge. On-site, there are well-maintained paths that lead to the waterfall. The walk from the main car park to both lookout points is about a 5-10-minute stroll.
There’s the top lookout point where you can look down at the waterfall, but a better view is the lower one, which gets you closer to the waterfall. When you visit the lower platform, you can feel the force of the water in your body, similar to sitting on a plane that’s taking off. The water flows at about 140 cubic meters per second in summer and about 109 cubic meters per second in winter.
To put that into perspective, the waterfall in Iceland with the most water flow is Urriðafoss, with 360 m³/s, and the waterfall considered one of the most powerful in Europe, Dettifoss, has an average water flow of 193 m³/s.
Opening hours: Open to the public 24/7
Parking Fee: Free
Visit the East side to avoid the crowds
Most people will visit the west side of the waterfall. However, those who want a more private experience should visit the east side. If you search for it on Google Maps, you’ll see no recognized road there, and almost all the photos are taken from the west side. That’s why locals almost exclusively visit the east side.
To get to the east side, coming from the Geysir geothermal area, you’ll need to take Road 30 instead of the usual Biskupstungnavegur 35 that leads to the west side. Once you’ve crossed the river Hvítá, you turn off onto road 349. The road is an F road, a non-paved dirt road, and you’ll need to look out for signs to Hrunamannaafréttur road and then turn onto the Gullfoss road that leads to the small hiking trail.
You know when you’ve arrived when you’ve reached the end of the road. There’s no dedicated parking area, but there’s plenty of room to leave your car. First, you must take the wooden steps that cross the fence and then take the path, a single-lane dirt path called a ‘sheep road’ in Iceland, to the falls, which takes about 20-30 minutes to reach.
The Woman Who Loved the Waterfall
On the west side of the falls, visitors will find a memorial to Sigríður Tómasdóttir, the woman who loved the falls. Sigríður is often called Iceland’s first environmentalist, and she played a pivotal role in saving Gullfoss from industrial development.
In the early 1900s, foreign investors planned to harness the waterfall for hydroelectric power, but Sigríður fought against it tirelessly, even threatening to throw herself into the falls if construction began. Gullfoss was preserved and later declared a protected natural reserve thanks to her efforts.
The Man with the Gold
The origin of the name Gullfoss, the Golden Falls, is debated. Most believe that the name comes from the golden colors and hues the mist brings during twilight hours.
However, one legend is that Gullfoss got its name from a wealthy farmer who hid a chest of gold in the falls. Unwilling to let anyone else possess his riches, he supposedly threw the gold into the waters, where it remains hidden to this day.
It is unknown whether that story is fact or fiction, but the tale adds a mystical element to the iconic waterfall. We Icelanders love our folklore and stories.
Geysir Geothermal Area
The Golden Circle’s third major stop is Haukadalur Valley, home to the famous Great Geysir, which has lent its name to all geysers worldwide. It was first mentioned in writing in 1647 when it was recorded that water once erupted over 70 meters (230 feet) high. Now, there are a few online “sources” that state that Geysir used to erupt with water, shooting 170 meters in the air. As cool as that sounds, no local sources from any period have recorded such a massive eruption.
The activity in the geyser has been fluctuating since the 1930s. In 1935, a channel was dug through the rim of Geysir to increase water flow, which caused a revival in activity, but with time, the channel got clogged with silica, and eruptions became less frequent. When Geysir again stopped all eruptions in 1954, researchers found that large amounts of soap would do the trick.
By 1981, the channel was cleared again, but eruptions still had to be forced with soap. This was mostly done on special occasions. Later, in 2000, Geysir became fully dormant unless 40-50 kg of soap was put in it. This practice was then stopped due to environmental concerns.
Today, the geyser is mostly dormant. The last eruption surprised visitors and workers in the area in 2016.
Search for Geysers and History
There’s more to do in the area than just look at the two main geysers, Geysir and Strokkur (the geyser that still erupts every 5-10 minutes). What most people don’t know is that there are numerous other geysers and historical monuments hidden close by.
These are a few of the other geysers you can also find on your walk of the geothermal area. These geysers erupt to a height of 1-10 meters, but the frequency of their eruptions hasn’t been fully documented, so it’s hard to say how long you’ll need to wait for one to spew water in the air.
- Sóði (Sloppy)
- Smiður (Carpenter)
- Fata (Bucket)
- Óþerrishola (Dirthole)
- Litli Geysir (little Geysir)
- Litli Strokkur (little Strokkur)
- Konungshver (King geyser)
- Blesi (Bluey).
Cultural monuments are also found within the protected area, the most significant being the Kings Stones. These stones are three large grey sandstones with decorative work. They are monumental relics of the visits of three Danish kings to Iceland. You’ll find them on the sloped hill above Geysir. The stones are located off the walking path between Geysir and the lookout point. You can take a short off-path detour to the stones for a little glimpse of history.
Example YouTube video of Strokkur geyser: https://youtu.be/TIK4wEdMwQM
Opening hours: Open to the public 24/7
Parking Fee: Free
Golden Circle Detours
The Golden Circle is more than just the three main sites. When you do visit, these are my three favorite detours and a few of the local favorites that are not crowded by other travelers.
Do you like Ice Cream?
Efstidalur Farm is a local favorite with its authentic farm-to-table experience. The farm has been family-run for generations and specializes in dairy products. Its homemade ice cream is made from milk sourced on-site, and flavors range from classic vanilla to wild Icelandic berries.
The best part is that inside the shop, a large window allows visitors to see the cows in the barn. So, while you enjoy your ice cream, you can get a glimpse into the daily operations of an Icelandic dairy farm. Beyond the ice cream, Efstidalur also serves farm-fresh skyr, Icelandic yogurt, burgers made from their own grass-fed cattle, and homemade cheese. If you’re visiting in the evening, this is also one of the best places in the area for sunset views.
The farm is open year-round and easily accessible via the Golden Circle route, though winter travelers should check road conditions before venturing off Highway 37.
Detour: 7-minute drive off the Golden Circle.
Do you like hot springs?
Reykjadalur Valley is home to one of Iceland’s few completely natural hot springs, where a geothermally heated river flows through a mountain valley. The trailhead starts above the town of Hveragerði, about 45 minutes from Reykjavík, and the hike to the river is around three kilometers each way. The journey takes about 1,5-2 hours, depending on your pace, and is considered moderately challenging with some steep sections.
The path is well-marked but can become muddy in wet conditions and icy in winter, so much so that the path is sometimes closed. Visit Safetravel.is for up-to-date information before heading out.
You can drive from Hveragerði towards Reykjadalur, where you can find paid parking and bathrooms at Reykjadalur Café.
So many visitors take the hike without knowing how far it is and even think they’ll find services there. I recommend taking at least half a day to do the hike. That way, you get to enjoy your time taking photos, bathing in the hot waters, and stopping to have a picnic before heading back. You’ll also get time to go a bit further to Klambratún, where you can see this active geothermal area’s colorful fumaroles and mud pools.
What I hear from most visiting people is that they wish they would have estimated more time to spend in the valley instead of just hiking there and back.
Detour: 7 minutes driving off the Golden Circle + hiking time
Do you like caves?
Laugarvatnshellir is an abandoned cave home with a fascinating history. Unlike most of Iceland’s lava caves, this one is human-made, carved into the soft sandstone of the area. Two Icelandic families lived in this cave as recently as the early 20th century, surviving in extreme conditions. The cave is located near Lake Laugarvatn, along Route 365, and is only open to visitors in the summer months from May to September, as snow makes access difficult in winter.
I recommend taking a guided tour of the property to hear stories about the families who lived there and how they used basic farming techniques to sustain themselves. Inside, you’ll see remnants of their living quarters, including makeshift furniture and a cooking area.
The tour takes only about 25 minutes and costs around 2000 ISK (cheap for Iceland); you can visit thecavepeople.is for more.
The location is remote, and the area is also beautiful, just in case you’re looking to avoid the crowds of the Golden Circle.
Detour: 15-minute drive off the Golden Circle.
Golden Circle Map of Attractions
Link to map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/edit?mid=1l-soGUBML0TJug-SPx4LMA29KP6WGuM&usp=sharing
When to Visit The Golden Circle
While most people who visit the area do so on a Golden Circle day tour in Iceland, those who plan the route themselves can more easily avoid the crowds.
Between the months of May and July, it’s the season of the midnight sun in Iceland. This is when the sun sets after midnight and rises again just a few hours later, creating continuous daylight. This is the perfect time to visit the Golden Circle.
When tour buses and large groups are visiting between the hours of 9 AM and 4 PM, you can either visit early in the morning before the crowds or arrive at night when most people are having dinner or even off to bed. The midnight sun makes it so that there’s light all day, so you don’t need to worry about missing out.
If you happen to be visiting in winter, the daylight window is much shorter—as short as 3-4 hours in the darkest periods in December and January. In those instances, it’s better to visit sights during daylight hours, but fortunately, fewer people are around.
Dining and Accommodation
If you decide to visit the Golden Circle (and I hope you do), you may want to find a place to sit down for lunch or dinner and even stay in the area overnight. If you do, you must go for lunch at Friðheimar Tomato Farm (spoiler! You’ll also find it on the map above).
It’s a farm where you can also visit the horses in the stables and pet them, but the main event is the restaurant inside a greenhouse where they grow tomatoes. It’s a fantastic experience, and the food is super good, too. A must-try is the tomato ice cream.
Efstidalur, the ice cream place I mentioned before, also has as-local-as-it-gets produce. The cattle are raised at the farm and fed from the fields to ensure the highest quality meat. If you stop by here, stick to their homemade products to get the best of the best. The family also runs a Farm Hotel where you can choose between cozy hotel rooms or cute cottages on the property.
If you’re into something more upscale, you’ll find Silfra Restaurant and Bar at ION Adventure Hotel. This four-star dining and hotel experience was actually designed with a view of the Northern Lights in mind.
Last but not least, if you’re into sleeping in nature, the best camping area is Úlfljótsvatn campsite. It’s one of the country’s largest and has the best amenities, lake views, and trees to protect from the winds. You’ll have access to electricity, BBQ spots, boat rentals, bathrooms and showers, and even events on the weekends in the summer.
And if you’re on a budget, I recommend stopping at Bónus grocery store (the cheapest in Iceland) to stock up on food before leaving the city. The grocery stores on the Golden Circle are small express shops with steep differences in prices.
The Golden Circle might be Iceland’s most popular tourist (and local) route, but calling it “boring” couldn’t be further from the truth. If you take the time to actually get to know the history and geology of the Golden Circle rather than treating it as a bucket list check-off item, you’ll discover why this area became so iconic in the first place.
I hope my local tidbits and insights have helped you plan your route. See you in Iceland!
Dóra Jónsdóttir
Dora is a small-town girl from Iceland who turned her passion for SEO, blogging, andall thingsonline marketing into a location-free lifestyle.She'salso the SEO and Digital Marketing Director at Travel Reykjavík, where she inspires people to visit her home country.