Although my wife and I now call New Mexico home, we both grew up in Baltimore, where tales of the famous Chincoteague ponies were part of the region’s lore. For years, witnessing the legendary five-minute pony swim from Assateague Island across the channel to Chincoteague, Virginia, had remained at the very top of my wife’s bucket list.
And since my wife and I travel back East each summer for the annual steamed crab feast at her cousin’s home in Cambridge, Maryland, on the Eastern Shore, we decided this year was the perfect opportunity to add the legendary Pony Swim to our itinerary.
The origins of the Chincoteague Pony Swim blend history and legend. While folklore claims the wild ponies descended from survivors of a Spanish shipwreck centuries ago, the annual “pony penning” began as a roundup in which colonial settlers gathered, identified, branded, and claimed the free-roaming horses.
Since 1924, the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department has managed the event as a fundraiser, and the iconic swim led by the “Saltwater Cowboys” has been a beloved tradition since 1925, gaining worldwide fame through Marguerite Henry’s 1947 novel “Misty of Chincoteague,” the same golden book story my wife fondly remembers reading as a child.
Because thousands of visitors travel from around the world to experience the Pony Swim and the surrounding festivities, hotels and bed-and-breakfasts on Chincoteague Island command premium prices. If you’re willing to stay 30 to 40 minutes away the night before however, you can save hundreds of dollars. We chose the Econo Lodge in Princess Anne, Maryland, about 35 miles from Chincoteague, and paid just $89 per night compared with rates of $450 or more at hotels near the event.
The town of Chincoteague itself is a picture-perfect, storybook town filled with charming coffee shops, old-fashioned ice cream parlors, unique antique stores, and numerous places to rent bicycles or scooters, making it easy to leisurely explore the island’s scenic streets and waterfront.
What You Actually See From Shore
After you’ve exhausted those leisurely pursuits, it’s time to head to the waterfront for the main event—the Pony Swim. Because parking near the viewing area is prohibited, the Town of Chincoteague, working with the Virginia State Police, operates a well-organized shuttle system from designated parking lots at local schools and community centers. Visitors simply park, board a shuttle bus, and are transported to the waterfront. Despite the enormous crowds, the entire operation is efficient, orderly, and surprisingly stress-free.
As the anticipation builds, the hoards of people depart the buses and head towards the viewing area. Of course, if you’re a die hard and want to see the swim up close, people camp out starting at about 4:30 in the morning to get the best seats. Otherwise, unless you have excellent binoculars, you’re basically looking across the water at the Coast Guard boats and leisure boats as the horses get ready to swim across the channel, though they appear little more than moving specks from about seven or eight football fields away.
Fortunately—or perhaps unfortunately—the town has installed a giant video screen that provides close-up camera coverage of the swim. While it’s certainly the best way to see the action in detail, there’s something a bit disappointing about traveling hundreds of miles to witness the famous Pony Swim only to watch much of it on an outdoor television.
That’s only the beginning of the experience. Once the ponies complete their crossing, the legendary Saltwater Cowboys herd them through the streets of Chincoteague in a festive parade to the holding pens, where they remain until the end of the week. There, visitors have the opportunity to see the horses up close before they are herded back across the channel to Assateague Island on Friday morning.
The Best Part Comes After the Swim
It is at this point that the real magic begins. Away from the crowds at the waterfront, visitors can observe the ponies as they exist the other 364 days of the year. Young foals remain close to their mothers, while the herd grazes peacefully on the ample hay provided for them in the holding pens.
The atmosphere is relaxed and unhurried, giving photographers and animal lovers alike the opportunity to appreciate these remarkable horses up close. Nearby, vendors offer a variety of souvenirs, and local artist Kelly Cosby displays stunning photographs of the ponies that beautifully capture the spirit and beauty of this one-of-a-kind event.
In the days following the Pony Swim, many of the foals are auctioned to carefully vetted buyers, with the proceeds benefiting the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department and helping fund the event each year. While it’s a bit heartbreaking to see the foals separated from their mothers after watching them stay so close together in the holding pens, it’s comforting to know they are placed in caring, permanent homes.
At the end of the week, the legendary Saltwater Cowboys return the remaining ponies across the channel to Assateague Island. By then, most of the crowds have departed, giving those who stay a far less congested—and often much closer—view of the horses than is possible during Wednesday’s famous swim.
Whether you come for the spectacle of the Pony Swim, the colorful parade through town, or the chance to observe these remarkable animals up close, you’ll leave Chincoteague with memories to last a lifetime. The Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department, the Saltwater Cowboys, and the Virginia State Police deserve tremendous credit for organizing and safely presenting one of America’s most unique and cherished traditions.
If You Go
When: The Pony Swim is held annually on the last Wednesday in July.
Where: Chincoteague, Virginia
Tip: Arrive before dawn for the best viewing, or stay until Friday morning when the Saltwater Cowboys return the ponies to Assateague Island for a closer, less crowded experience.
Information:
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Richard Atkins is a travel photo-journalist, playwright, screenwriter, actor and pianist. He can be reached at: [email protected].